Ha Giang Travel Guide from A to Z

(VNExpress) - Hà Giang is a northernmost province of Vietnam. The winding, steep roads in Hà Giang pose a challenge for drivers. However, once you take in the surrounding view, the tension gives way to a sense of tranquility as you admire the beauty of the highlands.

When is the best time to visit Hà Giang?

As a highland province, Hà Giang’s climate is noticeably cooler than that of the nearby lowland and midland regions, with an average annual temperature of about 21-23°C. Its climate is characterized by high humidity, frequent rainfall, and long rainy seasons.

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You can visit Hà Giang at any time of the year. Many people travel to Hà Giang during the autumn rice harvest season. The best time is from October to December, when buckwheat flowers and mustard blossoms are in full bloom. In spring, plum and apricot blossoms cover the forests, creating a cloud-like experience.

In May, terraced fields shimmer during the water pouring season. In June and July, many people overlook Hà Giang due to the sudden summer rains. However, this wetness paints the mountains and forests in a lush, captivating green.

Getting around

Traveling to Hà Giang from northern provinces is quite convenient with numerous direct buses. For those from the southern or central regions, starting the journey from Hanoi is recommended. From Hanoi, buses depart regularly from Mỹ Đình, Lương Yên, Yên Nghĩa, and Gia Lâm bus stations.

Visitors can choose between sleeper buses or high-quality limousines, depending on their budget. It's advisable to take an overnight bus to save time and energy for the long exploration ahead. Bus fares from Hanoi to Hà Giang range from 200,000 to 300,000 VND per trip.

Upon reaching Hà Giang City, you can rent a motorbike for 150,000 to 300,000 VND per day for self-guided tours. Alternatively, if you're short on time or traveling with elders and children, renting a 7- to 16-seat car service might be a better option.

Accommodation

For families or couples seeking luxury and privacy, P'apiu Resort in Yên Định Commune, Bắc Mê District, offers an immersive experience in highland culture. Guests can walk along Vietnam’s longest brocade road and stay in villas modeled after traditional H’Mong houses. A night here costs around 10,000,000 VND.

For something more unique, H’Mong Village in Tráng Kìm, Quản Bạ, offers accommodations shaped like traditional “quẩy tấu” baskets. Perched on hills overlooking the Miện River and distant mountains, this resort offers community rooms starting at 400,000 VND per night or bungalows at 2,400,000 VND per night.

For a more budget-friendly, community-based experience, you can stay at homestays such as Hoang Su Phi Lodge or Kinh Homestay near the terraced fields in Nậm Hồng Village, Ho Thau Commune.

Other options include Hồ Thầu Eco Village with traditional thatched-roof houses or Chúng Pủa - Auberge de MeoVac (Mèo Vạc), a local earthen house. Đồng Văn offers Bụi Homestay, a stilt house, and Hoàng Thân’s ancient house for 100,000 VND per person, or Ong Vàng Mèo Vạc Homestay at just 230,000 VND per night. Near Lũng Cú Flagpole, you can stay at Lo Lo Ancient House in Lô Lô Chải Village.

Where to go?

Since Hà Giang’s tourist spots are far apart, a minimum of three days and two nights is recommended to fully enjoy the sights. Many visitors suggest a three-day, four-night journey, or even a five-day trip if time permits.

Here is a suggested itinerary for a three-day, two-night trip:

Day 1: Hanoi - Hà Giang - Đồng Văn

To catch the Đồng Văn Sunday market, depart from Hanoi on Friday night. The next morning, around 8 am, you can begin your journey to Đồng Văn, taking photos along the way in the pleasant early morning atmosphere. The route from Hà Giang City to Đồng Văn should be divided into stages for a more enjoyable trip.

• Stage 1: Hà Giang - Quản Bạ Heaven Gate (40 km)
  From the city, your first stop is the Kilometer 0 milestone, then head to Quản Bạ, about 40 km away. Heaven Gate here is a famous check-in spot, though in winter, fog may obscure the view. If the sky is clear, you can enjoy views of the rice fields below.

• Stage 2: Quản Bạ Heaven Gate - Yên Minh Town (30 km)
  When you reach the Cán Tỷ Bridge, there are two routes: a steep road that saves 20 km but requires skilled driving, and a more manageable road. Plan your time to reach Yên Minh for lunch.

• Stage 3: Yên Minh Town - Đồng Văn Ancient Town (45 km)
  This route features many beautiful spots and famous tourist attractions, including Thẩm Mã Slope and the Nine-Layer Pass, symbolic of Hà Giang. Here, you’ll often see foreign tourists, landscape photographers, and H’Mong children carrying flowers.

Phố Cáo - an ancient village that hasn't been commercialized, preserving many traditional features of the H'Mong people. The Pao House, the setting for many Vietnamese films, is also a must-visit spot. Currently, the Pao House serves both as a residence and a tourist attraction. These points of interest are 10 km apart, so be sure to visit and keep an eye on the time to reach Đồng Văn before nightfall.

Day 2: Đồng Văn - Mèo Vạc

In the morning, visit the bustling Đồng Văn market, where you can find everything from daily essentials to ethnic specialties like linen, brocade, buckwheat cakes, and thắng cố soup. If you’re not interested in the market, you can visit the Mèo King’s Palace, an early 20th-century structure featuring intricate Chinese-style architecture.

Afterward, head to Lũng Cú Flag Tower, about 25 km from Đồng Văn, then travel to the Nho Quế River for a scenic boat ride through the majestic Tu Sản Canyon.

If you're not visiting the local market or the Hmong King's Palace, you can start at 6:30 AM from Dong Van to Lung Cu to visit the flagpole in the morning. This route is 25 km long and passes through several rough sections with gravel, sharp turns, and potholes. The travel time is about an hour and a half. Upon arrival, visitors can hike up to the flagpole and take in the views of the mountains and forests at the country's northernmost point. If you have time to relax, the Cuc Bac (Northernmost Point) coffee shop is also a great option for a rest.

Around 9:30 AM, you retrace your steps back to Dong Van, then head towards Meo Vac to reach the Nho Que River. The road down to the boat dock is very steep, with some sections under construction, so experienced drivers are recommended. If you're not confident, you can hire a local motorbike taxi service for 150,000 VND round-trip.

Though the road is difficult and bumpy in many parts, the beauty of the emerald green river will help ease some of the travelers' fatigue. After winding along the road hugging the mountainside, you'll arrive at the boat dock. The price for a boat ride on the Nho Que River is 100,000 VND per person, and the journey lasts about 40 minutes. The boat usually stops in front of Tu San Gorge, the most scenic spot, for visitors to take photos.

Around 2:30 PM, you head towards Meo Vac to visit Ma Pi Leng Pass. Although the pass road twists and turns, it is wide and smooth, with mountains on one side and a deep valley on the other.

Surrounded by the sky, clouds, and mountains, visitors can leisurely take in the scenery and capture photos. At the foot of the pass, you can visit the Happiness Road Museum to learn about the challenging history of building National Highway 4C, which connects Ha Giang City to Dong Van and Meo Vac

Around 5 PM, you can stop at the 12 km marker towards Meo Vac. This is one of the best spots to watch the sunset on Ma Pi Leng Pass, with a view of the Nho Que River in front of you. After enjoying the sunset, travel about 10 km to the Hmong Ethnic Cultural Village in Pa Vi for an overnight stay.

Day 3: Meo Vac - Ha Giang City - Hanoi

In Pa Vi, the scenery is peaceful, and when you wake up, you will be surrounded by majestic, lush green mountains. Meo Vac is about 150 km from Ha Giang, so it’s advisable to leave early to catch the bus back to Hanoi. There are two bus departure times you can choose from: 2 PM (arriving in Hanoi at 9 PM) and 9 PM (arriving in Hanoi at 4 AM the next morning).

If you choose the 2 PM bus, you should depart from Meo Vac at 8 AM and follow the route through Mau Due - Yen Minh - Quan Ba - Ha Giang City, without stopping for sightseeing. Note that the road from Meo Vac to Mau Due is quite rough, with many potholes and uneven surfaces.

If you opt for the 9 PM bus from Ha Giang City, you’ll have time to visit a few more spots. You can take the Mau Due - Duong Thuong route, visit Lung Tam Weaving Village, pass through Quan Ba, and explore Lung Khuy Cave, before heading back to Ha Giang City.

Hà Giang Specialties

When visiting the land of Hà Giang, don’t miss the egg rice rolls, featuring a thin layer of wet dough filled with the bright yellow yolk of the egg— a specialty of this northernmost region of the country.

Another dish worth trying is cháo ấu tẩu, made from a mix of glutinous rice and ordinary rice, along with the well-cooked ấu tuber simmered with rich pig trotters and various aromatic herbs. Cháo ấu tẩu is not just a simple dish but also a nourishing remedy for colds.

Banh Chung Gu is a specialty of Ha Giang, handmade, with the outer layer either green or black depending on the type of rice used. The green version has rice mixed with galangal leaves, while the black version uses black glutinous rice. The filling contains both lean and fatty pork. Only a few families in Ha Giang City make the cakes daily, but they need to be ordered in advance due to the limited quantity. Each cake costs around 17,000 VND.

Thang Den in Dong Van looks similar to Hanoi’s Banh Troi Tau, made from glutinous rice flour, and can be plain or stuffed with mung beans.

Thang Co is not a dish that everyone can enjoy, but it is a specialty of the Northwest region, with the aromatic scent of cardamom, doi seeds, and lemongrass, combined with the rich, fatty taste of meat.

Chao Au Tau (Au Tau porridge) is made from upland sticky rice, pork trotters, and au tau roots. The au tau root is cleaned, soaked in rice water overnight, then simmered for about four hours until soft and tender. The softened root is then mixed with the rice and cooked in broth made from pork trotters. Au tau root is highly toxic, so it must be carefully prepared. The dish is said to be good for sobering up and relieving joint pain.

Banh Tam Giac Mach (Buckwheat Cake) is a signature dish of the Hmong people in the rocky highlands. The process of making the cake is quite involved. The buckwheat seeds are harvested and sun-dried before being ground into a fine powder. The flour is mixed with water and shaped into round, flat cakes, which are then molded and steamed. Before serving, the cakes are either grilled or fried. The cake has a fragrant, mildly sweet taste with a slightly gritty texture.

Com Lam Bac Me (Bamboo Tube Rice) has gradually become a distinctive specialty of the Tay ethnic group. When enjoyed, the sticky rice is infused with the aroma of banana leaves and bamboo tubes. It pairs wonderfully with sesame salt or grilled stream fish, making for a delightful culinary experience.

What to Buy as Souvenirs in Ha Giang?

Ha Giang oranges are famously delicious, with ripe, juicy fruits that carry a unique and sweet flavor. It’s a gift that any tourist would love to bring back for family and friends.

Smoked sausage (Lạp xưởng gác bếp) is made from half-lean, half-fat pork, marinated with salt, sugar, MSG, white wine, ginger water, and a bit of finely ground dried mac khen (Sichuan pepper). After being smoked over a fire, it has a distinctive aroma that makes it unforgettable after just one bite.

From September to December (lunar calendar), it's the season to harvest mint honey on the Dong Van Karst Plateau. Along National Highway 4C, going through the districts of Quan Ba, Dong Van, and Meo Vac, visitors can easily spot bee-keeping huts where mint honey is extracted. This honey has a distinctive yellow lemon color, with a strong fragrance and a refreshing, mint-like sweetness.